How to Hem A Petite Dress-Elongate Legs
- Jun 18
- 5 min read
Updated: Jul 6
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Fit Guide: I am 5', 105 pounds. I usually wear XS-S top and XS bottoms.
Discover how to hem a petite dress, so you can always wear that much loved and sought after dress that you just finally located after searching through numerous boutiques, but it is just too long! As a 5' petite woman, I shop all of the petite boutiques, but, sometimes even the petite dresses are too long. Occasionally, I find a great fitting dress in regular sizes except for the length. With a few simple sewing tools and knowledge of a few simple steps, you will discover how to hema a petite dress to elongate your legs and never have to pass on a dress that fits great except for the length again!
You will be amazed that really takes very little sewing tools. The most important tool is a great pair of fabric cutting scissors. This is the one sewing tool that you will not want to skimp on. Cutting a clean straigth line sets you up for success when hemming a dress. Here is a basic list of sewing materials needed to hem your next dress:
fabric cutting scissors
straight pins
needles
thread (same color as dress)
ruler or straight hard object to mark a line on a dress
chalk pen to mark inside of dress
iron & ironing board
You did it! You bought that beautiful dress that you have had your eye on and you finally have the nerve to tackle hemming the dress. For petite women the best length for a short dress is 3-4 inches above the knee. For a midi to maxi dress, the best length is about 3 inches above your ankle. Those two lengths provide an elongating effect on a petite body.
Iron the dress and try it on with the shoes you plan to wear with the dress. Pin your dress up to the desired length. Have someone help pin it to the desired length as you stand in front of a mirror so you can view it from behind and all angles with another mirror. You may need to do this yourself and that is fine. It will just take a little longer.
Remove the dress. Turn it inside out and lay on a flat surface (tabletop or counter). measure from the pin downward to determine how much of the dress is too long. If it is more than 1/2" too long, cut off the excess leaving 1/2" to fold under twice before hemming in place. For example, if your dress is 4 " too long, measure, mark, and cut off 3 1/2". Before you cut, measure the amount that needs to be cut off and mark it with a chalk pen all of the way across the dress as seen in the picture below.
With a ruler or other straight surface, draw a line through all of the points. This will ensure that you cut a straight line with the correct measurements all of the way across the dress.
After you cut off the excess of more than 1/2", fold the hem under 1/4". Then fold it under again, so you have no exposed frayed threads. It will be helpful to pin it and iron it to keep it flat and smooth. (It has been tempting to skip this step, but it is crucial to having a professional looking hem job. Don't skip this step!)
Now, you are ready to start hemming the dress. Make certain you are using a similar color thread. If it is a thin- striped dress as shown in this image, use white thread and make your stitches in the white stripes of the dress. Start sewing at the edge of the dress (where the buttons meet for a shirtdress or at the sides where the seams meet for other dresses.). Always add double stitching at the end of the edge of the dress for reinforcement.
Keep your stitches small and equally spaced apart. Do not pull the fabric. Let the fabric relax and make certain your stripes line up as you stitch the dress. You may need to pull the fabric and let it overlap slightly as you sew into the side seams since dresses curve and are not totally straight. This will ensure that your stitches line up all of the way around the dress. Reinforce your last stitches, so they do not pull out when the dress is washed.
Remove the dress, press it well, and you are ready to enjoy your freshly hemmed dress.
Important points:
Take the time to measure and mark properly. If you are not certain, try the dress on again after marking it before you cut it.
Make certain your marks are the same amount all of the way across the dress before cutting.
Take the time to iron the double folded hem in place and pin securely.
Keep your stitches equal and spaced as demonstrated in the images above. Insert the needle in white stripes if you are hemming a dress with vertical stripes.
Use similar shades of thread to match the fabric as much as possible.
Don't try to hem the dress leaving a lot of excess fabric. If you fold up more than 1/2", your hem will look bulky and ugly.
Pass this skill on to a young person; this skill has not been taught in recent generations, but what a valuable skill for a woman, especially, a petite woman to have throughout her life.
I hope you have gained the knowledge to feel comfortable hemming a petite dress. Of course, you will still want the simplicity of shopping in petite shops for clothes that do not require any tailoring to fit properly, but it will sure be great to have this skill for those rare occasions when no other dress will do except for the dress that needs to be hemmed.
If you love shirt dresses and master this skill, you will enjoy these Amazon 100% cotton shirtdresses in a variety of prints. You can have fun hemming these dresses to fit the occasion as shown in the images below.
Vist My Amazon Storefront for these 100% cotton shirt dresses and sewing supplies.
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Please leave your comments below. We would love to hear from you!
What is your favorite hem length above the knee? Do you prefer 2" or do you like the elongation of a petite body that you get from a hem length of 4"+ above the knee?
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